Antonio Calce, CEO of Girard-Perregaux

On 12 January 2015, Albert Bensoussan, CEO of Kering’s “Luxury, Watches & Jewellery” division, officially announced in a press release the appointment of Antonio Calce as head of the Sowind Group, made up of the JEANRICHARD and Girard-Perregaux brands. A man of Italian elegance, known for his frankness delivered in a polished tone, he cut his teeth within the Richemont group (Piaget and Panerai) and had until then been running Corum. His mission: to turn the group around. And he was given carte blanche to do it! The first decision of Sowind’s new boss was to focus on Kering’s watchmaking jewel: Girard-Perregaux.

Known and respected for the quality of its products, the brand enjoys a prestige unrivalled in the watchmaking world. But who actually knows it? Who knows that it won the gold medal at the 1889 Paris Universal Exhibition? And above all, who knows that the runner-up that year was none other than the now world-famous Eiffel Tower? Antonio Calce set himself a twofold mission: to nurture an extraordinary savoir-faire, and above all to make it known! He decided to dust off the “sleeping beauty”. Alongside an industrial strategy of de-verticalisation that runs counter to a stubbornly persistent trend, he is working to rejuvenate the brand’s image and give it a new identity. The new Laureato has become the brand’s spearhead for winning over 25 to 35 year olds, while the Neo Bridges is meant to be the entry point to the Haute Horlogerie that Girard-Perregaux masters so well. Two outstanding pieces, eagerly awaited by the brand’s retailers and already enjoying strong commercial success. But Antonio Calce has no intention of stopping there, and promises us some fine surprises at SIHH 2018. In just over two years at the helm of Girard-Perregaux, he has managed to instil positive momentum. All that remains is to confirm it quickly before we can speak of a winning strategy. So let’s get to know this clear-sighted and consistent speaker, who will no doubt charm you and convince you of what he himself firmly believes!

Surname	Calce
First name	Antonio
Date and place of birth	19 April 1967 in Neuchâtel
Marital status	Married
Number of children	3
Current position	CEO of Girard-Perregaux (SOWIND SA)
Last three positions held in watchmaking	Managing Director of the Panerai Manufacture Vice President of Operations, then CEO of Corum
Highest qualification	Graduate engineer in microengineering from the Haute Ecole Supérieure (HES) and holder of a management diploma from the Haute Ecole de Gestion (HEG)

Which watch are you wearing for this interview?

I’m wearing a 42mm steel Laureato with a black dial.

Created in 1975, the Laureato has now, for the first time in the entire history of Girard-Perregaux, been developed into a genuine, complete family of products, making it a true brand strategy. So this year we wrote a new chapter in the story of this iconic watch, and we completely rethought the whole range.

What is your greatest watchmaking achievement?

A great watchmaking achievement is always the work of a team, and this year I would single out the Neo Bridges for its modernity. It is the perfect example of today’s innovation, carrying the Girard-Perregaux signature while being undeniably modern. With this new model, we are in line with the brand’s heritage and identity. We are rejuvenating Girard-Perregaux by interpreting its history while looking to the future. Innovative, with its large low-frequency balance wheel, symmetrical design and flawless finishing, the Neo Bridges draws on the three bridges and carries great meaning for Girard-Perregaux. It is the first time a watch in the Bridges collection has been born without a tourbillon.

What is your favourite watch complication?

More than any complication or function, it is the architecture of the movement and the quality of its finishing that move me the most. Over a long gestation, and the outstanding watchmaker that he was, Constant Girard-Perregaux developed two movements with three perfectly symmetrical parallel bridges and a detent escapement, finally arriving at a Tourbillon with three gold bridges, which he patented in March 1884. At the 1889 Paris Universal Exhibition, he presented his masterpiece, the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, which won the gold medal. Constant Girard-Perregaux’s approach is interesting in more ways than one: his Tourbillon under three gold Bridges is a true synthesis of aesthetics, technique and, for some, symbolism. It is unique in watchmaking. Rather than relying on existing calibres, as his peers continued to do, he tackled the very structure of the movement and the shape of its components. The movement thus ceases to be a purely technical element and becomes part of the watch’s aesthetics, to the point of making it instantly recognisable.

Apart from watchmaking, what are your other passions?

Wine. Fashion. Design.

What is your dream car?

I love great comfort, space, fine and high-quality materials; I wouldn’t name one car in particular.

What is your favourite wine?

Despite my Italian roots, I have to admit that I have a special fondness for Bordeaux wines.

How would you define luxury?

Creativity. Exclusivity. Quality.

Which figure, historical or contemporary, inspires you?

There are many. But it’s true that ever since I was very young, I have felt a special attachment to Greek thought, through the various men and women who embodied it.

What quality do you value most in others, and which of your own flaws do you regret?

Integrity and honesty. As for a flaw, it’s hard to choose, but perhaps being too direct.

Is there a quote you particularly like?

“One must have no regrets…” Jean Jaurès

What time is it?

It’s time to wake up.

Discover the latest news and collections from Girard-Perregaux on their website.