Cette opportunité me paraît tout à fait pertinente ; dans le paysage horloger actuel, au-delà des communications officielles des marques et des fora horlogers, il me semble qu’il manque un élément de choix important : le retour d’expérience, aussi neutre et objectif que possible.
J’ai donc la chance de passer quelques jours avec cette Jean Richard, et vais tenter de partager avec vous mes impressions, mais également le ressenti de mon entourage, ainsi que les avis d’autres passionnés. A titre personnel, ce test m’intéresse d’autant plus que la marque est pour moi une énigme…
LA MARQUE :
Pourtant, à bien y regarder, la première montre créée par Daniel Jean Richard date de 1681, une première dans la région, soit une centaine d’années avant l’apparition de Girard-Perregaux…
Au XIXème siècle, Louis Jean Richard, son petit-fils, construit un observatoire lui permettant de tester la précision de ses montres, bien avant la création de l’observatoire de Neufchatel.
Nous devons à Jean Richard l’invention d’un grand nombre de machines et outils, qui seront ensuite utilisés par tous les horlogers. Une grande partie de ces inventions a été regroupée dans le musée éponyme, celui-ci servant également d’atelier de formation pour les horlogers du groupe Sowind …
Enfin, lors de ma dernière visite à la Chaux de Fonds, je me souviens m’être arrêté devant ce panneau :
D’où mon interrogation : à l’heure où nous sommes littéralement inondés de marques tentant de s’acheter une légitimité historique parfois douteuse, comment se fait-il de Jean Richard soit à ce point méconnu des amateurs d’horlogerie ?
LE MODELE :
CARACTERISTIQUES TECHNIQUES
MOUVEMENT
Mouvement à remontage automatique de manufacture JR1060
Calibre 15’’’, 31 rubis, fréquence 28 800 alt / heure (4Hz)
Réserve de marche 48 heures
BOITIER
Boîtier en acier, lunette en acier revêtu de caoutchouc vulcanisé
Poussoirs et protège-couronnes en acier, traités PVD noir
43 x 43 mm hors couronnes, épaisseur : 13,23 mm
Glace saphir anti-reflets, légèrement bombé
Fond saphir teinté
Couronnes vissées : 2
Etanche à 100 mètres
CADRAN
Cadran ardoise, motifs géométriques,
Chiffres arabes et index appliqués avec matière luminescente
BRACELET
En alligator anthracite, avec boucle déployante en acier
FONCTIONS
Heure, minute, seconde, double fuseau horaire, date à 6 heures
TESTS DE PRECISION :
– Effectués sur 5 positions –
Couronne à 3.00 :
Couronne à 6.00 :
Couronne à 9.00 :
Sur la tranche, couronne vers le haut :
Position couchée :
LE MOUVEMENT
Ce mouvement est joliment décoré, que ce soit sur la platine (perlage), les ponts (anglés et côtes de Genève) ou la masse oscillante (côtes de Genève circulaires et gravures). Il bénéficie par ailleurs d’un réglage fin.
Pourquoi dès lors avoir teinté le fond transparent ? Cela empêche malheureusement d’admirer tous les détails de ce très joli mouvement… Vraiment dommage, car je suis féru des belles mécaniques…
LE BOITIER
Pour information, la montre passe difficilement sous les manches de chemise, ceci n’étant de toute façon pas dans la philosophie sportive de ce modèle.
La première chose qui frappe est la parfaite symétrie de la 2 Time Zones :
– Couronne vissée à 3 heures pour le réglage rapide de la date et de l’heure, logo JR
– Couronne vissée à 9 heures pour le réglage des villes
– Poussoirs à 8 et 10 heures, pour le réglage indépendant de l’aiguille des heures, traités PVD
– Epaulements de la couronne à 3.00 traités PVD également.
Cette symétrie est le premier élément commenté par mon entourage, présenté comme très esthétique mais également assez perturbant : A l’essai, 2 de mes amis l’ont enfilée à l’envers, avant de se rendre compte de leur erreur… Je trouve personnellement que ce parti-pris esthétique lui donne une grande originalité et beaucoup de caractère.
Un autre élément a été régulièrement mis en exergue : la lunette en caoutchouc. Les avis sont partagés sur le sujet : Certains ont pensé que cela collait à son style sportif, baroudeur, mais elle a également été perçue comme assez « bas de gamme » sur une belle montre. Je trouve personnellement que cette matière reste dans l’esprit sportif de cette Chronoscope, mais je crains pour la durabilité de celle-ci.
LE CADRAN
2 inscriptions assez discrètes : cette 2 Time Zones n’a pas cédé à la mode du verbiage inutile sur son cadran, grand bien lui en a pris.
La lisibilité est parfaite, y compris dans l’obscurité, grâce au traitement luminova des chiffres, index et aiguilles.
Dernier point qui me semble bien résumer la philosophie de ce cadran, mais aussi de la marque : La mention Swiss Made est bien présente, mais elle est simplement illisible sans une loupe, en toute discrétion.
Vous l’avez compris, je suis sous le charme de ce cadran, que ce soient par sa finition, sa lisibilité et son aspect fonctionnel.
COURONNES, BRACELET, BOUCLE
La couronne à 3.00 est siglée de la marque, celle à 9.00 reprend un motif circulaire qui n’est pas sans me rappeler une valve Hélium…
Je me suis amusé à monter un bracelet de type NATO noir, je trouve l’ensemble plus « raccord ». Le montage d’un bracelet caoutchouc mat qui rappellerait le caoutchouc vulcanisé de la lunette serait peut-être la meilleure combinaison possible…
IMPRESSIONS AU QUOTIDIEN
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DANIEL JEAN RICHARD CHRONOSCOPE 2 TIME ZONESLa Revue des Montres in association with Passion Horlogère is proposing a brand new horological information concept : the long-term test. In order to do so, the members of Passion Horlogère will be lent a watch for a few weeks, and they will have to deliver their general and detailed feeling on it.
This opportunity seems particul arly relevant to me; In fact, between the brands’ official communications and the watch forums, I think that we miss an important choice factor: a long-term feedback, as neutral and objective as possible.
So I have the opportunity to spend a few weeks with this Jean Richard, and I am going to share with you my personal feeling, but also the reactions of my relatives and other watch fans. Personaly, this test ins even more interesting, as this brand is an enigma for me…THE BRAND :
Daniel Jean Richard : Girard Perregaux’s sister brand in the Sowind group, often considered as the secondary choice in the group… As Tudor would be for Rolex?
Yet, when we look closely at the history, the first watch created by Daniel Jean Richard was released in 1681, a premiere in the area, a hundred years before Girard-Perregaux appeared…
In the nineteenth century, his grandson Louis Jean Richard built an observatory in order to test his watches’ precision, far before the creation of Neufchatel’s observatory.
Jean Richard invented a large number of machines and tools, which will be used by all the watch makers. A large part of these creations was gathered in the Jean Richard Museum, which is also a training center for all the Sowind Group technicians…
Last but not least: During my last visit in La Chaux de Fonds, I remember having stopped before this sign:Hence my question: while we are literally drowned by new brands trying to buy themselves an often sometimes doubtful historical legitimacy, why is Jean Richard so little known by watch fans?THE WATCH:
The Chronoscope range was created in 2008 and is using the manufactured JR1000 movement. The 2 Time Zones is equipped with a second twenty-four-hours time zone, displayed through a window at 12 o’clock, and a second aperture at 6 o’clock displays a choice of 24 reference cities for the different time zonesTECHNICAL DETAILS
MOVEMENT
JR1000 in-house manufactured self-winding mechanical movement (JR1060)
Calibre 15’’’, 31 jewels, frequency 28,800 vib./hour (4 Hz)
48 hours power reserveCASE
Steel case, vulcanised rubber-coated steel bezel,
Steel pushers and crown-shields and black PVD-coated
43 x 43 mm (w/o crowns), height : 13,23 mm
Convex, colourless anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Tainted sapphire case-back secured with 4 screws
Two screw-down crowns
Water-resistant to 100 metresDIAL
Slate coloured dial with geometrical motives
Applied rhodium-coated Arabic numerals and indexes with luminescent materialSTRAP
Matt gray alligator strap with sand-blasted stainless steel folding buckle
FUNCTIONS
Hours, minutes, seconds, dual time zone and date window at 6 o’clock
ACCURACY TESTS :
These tests were perfomed in 5 positions :
Crown at 3.00 :
Crown at 6.00 :
Crown at 9.00 :
On the side, crown upward :
Horizontal position :
These tests seem very relevant to me ; As far as I know, the JR1060 was not COSC certified, but on this short test period (and not taking into account the temperature variations), it seems in the norm. Note the diabolical precision with the crown at 3.00.THE MOVEMENT
The JR1060 is derived from the JR1000 (15 lines width, 5,25mm height), adding a dual 24-hour time zone indication .
This movement is nicely decorated, on the main plate (perlage), the bridges (anglage and straight Côtes de Genève Decoration) or the rotor (circular Côtes de Genève and engraved with the Jean Richard logo and “KR1000”). It is also equipped with a fine adjustment setting.
If so, why did JR install a tainted back case? It unfortunately prevents from admiring all the details of this lovely movement… A real shame for me, as I am fond of beautiful movement…THE CASE
People could be impressed by the size of the case : 43 X43 mm (w/o crowns). They should not, as a cushion-shaped case is not as impressive as a round one. For your information, you can see a wristshot below (my wrist is 17,5 cm wide), a confirmation that this chronoscope is not too large:The 22mm wide lugs will allow a large choice of straps. They are slightly curved, so that the watch can match perfectly the shape of the wrist.
For information, the watch is a little too thick to fit under shirts sleeves; yet this doesn’t match the sporty philosophy of the watch.
I am first struck by the perfect symmetry of the 2 Time Zones :
– Screw-down crown at 3.00 : fast setting of date and hours, JR logo
– Screw-down crown at 9.00 : cities setting
– Pushers at 8.00 and 10.00 : independent hour hand setting, pvd coated
– 3.00 crown shields also PVD coated
This smmetry wasthe first element abundantly commented by my relatives, presented as very aesthetic, but also quite disturbing: While trying it, 2 of my friends actually put it upside down before trying to look at it… My personal opnion is that this is giving it a strong originality and character.
Another element was largely discussed: the vulcanised rubber-coated steel bezel. People had different opinions on it; some thought this was a perfect match with its sporty style, but it was also perceived as relatively « low end » on such a beautiful watch. My personal opinion is that this sticks to the adventurous spirit of the Chronoscope, but I fear its durability may be poor.THE DIAL
Matt grey dial with a chessboard motif, applied index and Arabic numerals, broad arrow (hours) and sword (minutes) hands, seconds hand terminated with red painting, Circular railway style, Inner bezel ring indicated 13.00 to 24.00, cities and dual time zone apertures finely circled: the finish is almost perfect.
Only 2 discrete inscriptions are displayed : the 2 Time zones did not yield n’a pas cédé to the fashion of unnecessary verbiage on the dial, which is a very good idea.With 36mm aperture, this dial catches marvelously the light, under all angles, reflecting different colours, either with natural or artificial light. This is, as far as I am concerned, the strongest point of this watch.
It is extremely easy to read the indications, even in the dark, thanks to the Luminescent application on the numerals, index and hands.
A last information, which in my opinion sums up the philosophy of this dial, but also the overall brand: the “Swiss Made” indication is displayed, but so small that it is almost impossible to read it without a magnifier; 100% discretion.As you may already have guess, I am in love with this dial, for its finish, readability and functional aspects.
CROWNS, STRAP, BUCKLE
The crown at 3.00 is badged with the brand logo, and the one at 9.00 is using a circular pattern which reminds me of a Helium valve…
The strap is made out of grey Alligator skin, and this is for me the weak point of the watch. From my point of view, this does not match the sporty style of the Chronoscope, and it very matt aspect (as a reminder of the dial) makes it seem much more low end than it really is.
I tried it with a NATO syle strap, which already suits the watch more efficiently. Perhaps a vulcanized matt strap would be the perfect combination, and also a reminder of the bezel…The finish of the deploying clasp is perfect : brushed finish, very easy to open and close, it gives a very solid feel and is very thin while it is closed. This clasp is simply perfect.DAY TO DAY FEELING
First important point: this watch is very comfortable. It never bothered me. I was surprised to look at the time almost every 5 minutes, for the sheer pleasure of looking at it… It was a daily pleasure to have it on my wrist. I was impressed by its great readability, and at no time the crowns or shields bothered me.
Yet I had to leave it on my watch winder while my job required me to wear a suit, even with cufflinks. (actually I strongly advise to choose carefully the type of cufflinks used while you have a nice watch, as they may very easily scratch it). This is not really an issue for me, as I have severall watches, for all situations (even the most unlikely ones…), but this may be an issue if you own this chronoscope as your only watch.Despite its strong character and its size, it never was perceived as a « show-off » to my colleagues and relatives.
However, I never got used to its strap, in my opinion not in the spirit of the watch. I kept it on the NATO strap.At last, my biggest deception: the almost opaque transparent see through glass… As a person who likes to tinker old calibers, I could spend hours detailing a nice movement. This JR1060 is one for sure, a manufactured movement, with nice decorations. But why on earth did Jean Richard hide it behing this smoked glass? Why then was it not hidden by a solid back case, which may have been in the spirit of its sporty style?OTHER WATCH ENTHUSIAST OPINIONS
I had the opportunity to show the Chronoscope to a few enthusiasts, here are their comments on it:
– The symmetry is sometimes disturbing, sometimes endearing, it is for sure a configuration which leaves no one indifferent
– Beautiful dial, but its matt aspect did bother a few people
– Everyone agreed on a better combination with a vulcanized strap, the alligator one looking cheap and unsporty
– The cushion shape of the case and the arabic numerals style reminded some of the Panerai StyleCONCLUSION
This transparent-but-almost-opaque see-through case back, this almost invisible “Swiss-made” on the dial are good demonstrations of the lack of image of Jean Richard, too discrete on the French market… While too many brands show “generic” movements with see through casebacks, without any horological interest, I do not understand why Jean Richard does not proudly exhibit its JR1060 on this model.
Also, too many brands try to oversell themselves using very “fuzzy” historic legitimacies; Jean Richard has a very long and marvelous history; why do not they communicate more about it? This cult of discretion and confidentiality is a puzzle to me.
I had the pleasure to wear a great watch, beautifully finished, very distinctive from other models available on the market: This 2 TimeZones has a great manufactured caliber, has a strong character and left no one indifferent around me.Jean Richard has great products (I also had the opportunity to try a Bressel model), but it perharps suffers from its affiliation with Girard Perregaux in the Sowind group. This brand deserves a much better and stronger communication.
Too many brands, trying to sell an image, tend to forget they actually manufacture watches; on the contrary, Daniel Jean Richard has great products, and can rely on a very long and beautiful history. What are we waiting to give it the rank it actually deserves in the horology landscape?Photos & text by Frédéric D. for Passion Horlogère
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