Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate 38 mm: timeless elegance finally finds its perfect proportions

Blancpain expands its Villeret collection with a new 38 mm Ultraplate version, a diameter that answers the current expectations of classic-watch enthusiasts without abandoning the manufacture’s DNA. More than a mere change in size, this novelty illustrates the determination of the Le Brassus house to pursue its quest for balance, slimness and refinement. Between a new salmon dial, revisited finishes and proven in-house movements, the Villeret confirms its status as an icon of contemporary Haute Horlogerie.

The Villeret, a benchmark for the classic watch

In a watchmaking landscape where imposing diameters long dominated collections, a return to more measured proportions is gradually taking hold. Today, collectors are rediscovering the qualities of an elegant watch that knows how to be forgotten on the wrist while still asserting a genuine personality.

For several decades, the Villeret collection has embodied this philosophy. Inspired by the noblest codes of traditional watchmaking, it favours purity of line, balanced proportions and a sophistication that never seeks to draw attention in an ostentatious way.

With this new 38 mm version, Blancpain is not following a trend. The manufacture is responding to a natural evolution in the expectations of enthusiasts who are looking for more restrained watches, suited to a greater diversity of wrists, while retaining an assertive presence.

The result is particularly convincing: the proportions of the case seem to have always existed in this configuration.

38 mm: the diameter of balance

The arrival of this 38 mm Villeret Ultraplate does not replace the historic 40 mm version. The two references now coexist so that each enthusiast can choose the diameter that best suits their build and their preferences.

This new case naturally retains all the attributes that define the collection’s identity: the famous double-stepped bezel, delicately curved lugs, an extremely slim middle case and a thickness limited to just 8.35 mm.

This slimness directly contributes to everyday comfort. Slipped under a shirt cuff or worn with a more casual outfit, the watch remains discreet without ever losing its presence.

At a time when versatile timepieces are increasingly appealing, this Villeret strikes a particularly successful balance between classic elegance and contemporary use.

A first salmon dial for the Villeret collection

If there is one novelty that immediately catches the eye, it is the appearance of a salmon dial in the Villeret collection.

Highly prized by collectors, this colour has enjoyed a genuine resurgence of interest in the world of Haute Horlogerie over the past few years. Blancpain interprets it here with great restraint thanks to a sunray finish that shifts its shades between copper, pink and gold depending on the light.

The pairing with the stainless steel case is also a first. The 18-carat gold Roman numerals now benefit from a particularly elegant black treatment, creating a subtle contrast with the dial.

The look is completed by an anthracite nubuck strap that reinforces the contemporary character of this version without detracting from its timeless elegance.

For those who prefer a more classic aesthetic, Blancpain also retains a gilt opaline dial that remains faithful to the collection’s historic codes.

A boutique edition full of subtlety

The manufacture also reserves an exclusive version for its boutiques.

This reference pairs a steel case with solid yellow gold Roman numerals, a gilt opaline dial and a hand-stitched olive green alligator nubuck strap.

This choice of colours may be surprising on paper, but it works remarkably well once the watch is on the wrist. The olive green brings a touch of modernity while remaining discreet enough to preserve the Villeret’s dressy character.

This version once again demonstrates that Blancpain has perfectly mastered the art of detail. Nothing is ostentatious, yet every element helps to create a distinct personality.

An aesthetic evolution defined by finesse

This new generation of Villeret is not limited to a change in diameter.

The manufacture continues the stylistic work begun in 2025 with several particularly successful refinements.

The Roman numerals, made of solid 18-carat gold, have been redrawn to improve the overall proportions of the dial. The traditional XII numeral now gives way to the JB monogram, a tribute to Jehan-Jacques Blancpain that lends the collection an additional identity.

The hands, now more slender, receive a discreet application of Super-LumiNova®, improving their nighttime legibility without disrupting the watch’s classic aesthetic.

The date window also gains in legibility thanks to a slightly enlarged aperture, while the sapphire caseback reveals a particularly elegant openworked gold oscillating weight.

All of these details illustrate Blancpain’s determination to evolve its emblematic model through small touches rather than through disruption.

The calibre 1150, a proven mechanism

Beneath this elegance lies a movement that connoisseurs have appreciated for many years: the automatic in-house calibre 1150.

At just 3.25 mm thick, it remains one of the most accomplished ultra-thin automatic movements in its category.

It delivers a comfortable 100-hour power reserve thanks to its two barrels mounted in series, allowing the watch to be left for several days without stopping.

Its silicon balance spring improves resistance to magnetic fields and contributes to the movement’s chronometric stability, while its finishes meet the standards of Swiss Haute Horlogerie.

Through the transparent caseback, the bevelling, the traditional decorations and the gold oscillating weight bear witness to the care given to every component.

The moon phase, a historic Blancpain signature

This evolution of the collection is also accompanied by two new 29.2 mm Villeret Moon Phase models.

This complication holds a special place at Blancpain. Since the 1980s, the famous lunar face has become one of the manufacture’s most recognisable visual signatures.

These new references preserve this identity with an applied gold moon on a blue ceramic background, framed by a diamond-set bezel and equally gem-set indexes.

The in-house calibre 913QL powers this complication with a mechanism that allows the calendar to be corrected without any risk to the movement, a genuine everyday advantage.

This version is naturally aimed at a clientele drawn to more restrained proportions while rediscovering the historic codes that have contributed so greatly to Blancpain’s success.

Specification	Detail
Brand	Blancpain
Model	Villeret Ultraplate 38 mm
Case	Stainless steel, 38 mm, 8.35 mm thick, double-stepped bezel
Dial	Sunray salmon (or gilt opaline), 18 ct gold Roman numerals, JB monogram
Movement	In-house calibre 1150, automatic, 3.25 mm, silicon balance spring
Power reserve	100 hours (two barrels in series)
Strap	Anthracite nubuck (boutique edition: olive green alligator)

A coherent vision of Haute Horlogerie

More than forty years after the rebirth of Blancpain, the Villeret collection remains faithful to a conviction that spans the generations: a classic watch does not need to overdo it to be convincing.

This new 38 mm version perfectly illustrates this philosophy. It seeks neither to revolutionise the collection nor to give in to passing trends. It simply refines an already well-proven formula by offering a particularly relevant alternative for enthusiasts who favour more restrained proportions.

The arrival of the salmon dial brings a welcome note of freshness, while the aesthetic refinements further strengthen the coherence of the whole.

With this new Villeret Ultraplate, Blancpain reminds us that in Haute Horlogerie, true elegance often lies in what seems the simplest. Behind this apparent understatement lies considerable work on proportions, finishes and mechanics, all of which make this novelty one of the most appealing propositions of the year in the world of dress watches.

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